Turkish Delights - a city for the senses.
By Lyndsay Scott
As I contently flop on the edge of the hotel bed to take off my shoes, my watch proudly tells me I have taken over 23,00 steps for the day. It’s no surprise when you are traipsing all over a lively city like Istanbul - however few have had me completely in awe of the cultures living simultaneously as they are here, plus the sensory overload of colours, smells and sounds from one side of the Bosphorus to the other.
We landed at first light at the new Istanbul Airport, which is still partially under construction and when finished, is said to be six times the size of Londons Heathrow. Muted transit chatter, suitcase wheels crossing tiles and the odd announcement over the speaker in both English and Turkish, is the calm before the storm as you officially enter Turkey through the double glass doors. Cabbies vying for your business, clouds of smoke, drivers swapping cars, yelling into two phones at once and traditional folk music as the sun came up was an exciting first look at what we can expect over the next 4 days in this transcontinental city - going beyond the Golden Horn.Whenever possible we schlepped up rooftops to watch the city doing it’s thing from above. Layers of tired rooftops, sheets flapping on washing lines, colourfully tiled domes and tangled powerlines surprise and delight into the horizon. The smell of sizzling sardines and fresh simit bread wafts by whilst seagulls squabble and horns toot impatiently below. Then, just when you think you can’t be more enchanted by this place - the call to prayer echoes across the city from mosques in all directions.But, how long is a piece of string? If you only have a few days in Istanbul and want to have a real assault on your senses, these six neighbourhoods will do the trick for a memorable, eye-opening visit.EMINÖNÜ
Stepping off the east end of the Galata bridge past fisherman trawling in their catch and young locals jumping off the bridge to cool off - you’ll be on your journey to the markets. Stalls and tea shops line both sides of the streets, spilling over the sidewalk until suddenly stalls outweigh the cafes and you are surrounded by haggling, sneaker rip-offs and shop owners spruiking their wares.It’s loud, busy, brilliantly overwhelming and the largest bazaar in the world. The journey is mostly uphill to the Grand Bazaar - so take the tram if you want to save the legs. Enter via Beyazit Gate and when you need some respite, head to one of the nearby rooftop cafes and watch the city below while de-briefing on your treasures.KARAKÖY
Previously known as Old Galata - Karaköy is lively and buzzing, packed with restaurants and bars, coffee houses, makers and galleries. This neighbourhood is a fun contrast of modern businesses operating from old Byzantine architecture, rich colours, fresh greenery and creativity flowing around every corner. Visit Bey - a store showcasing local designer clothing for Men, Atölye 11 for homewares and Vitruta for a vibrant fashion and lifestyle boutique.BEYOGLU
Encompassing a larger area of the city including Taksim Square and the popular Istiklal Street -Beyoglu’s web of smaller lanes, steps and steep inclines beyond are where you’ll find the vibe. Visit book shop cafes like Frankestayn Kitabevi or Proje Cafe, grungey night spots like NOH Radio and Solera Winery for a night cap.If you find yourself here whilst peckish - enjoy manti (Turkish pockets of minced lamb with garlic yoghurt and chilli oil) at Ficcin or an Adana style kebab, sitting on the terrace at Avlu Ocakbasi.Whilst it’s easy to dine at Galata Tower with the crowds it pays off to go deeper. And if you feel like having two dinners, we won’t judge.KADIKÖY
Listed in Time Out’s Coolest Neighbourhoods in the World from 2018, Kadiköy is a 20 minute ferry ride from Galataport and is on the Asian side of the Bosphoros. The younger, uni student demographic hangs out here in this relaxed, residential neighbourhood where there are plenty of bohemian cafes and eateries, bright street murals and artists markets. Head to Irregular Dining for lunch, stroll along Antique Street and slow-sip an afternoon Raki at one of many lively bars. Catch the ferry back at dusk and count the mosque spires over the city.BALAT
Found by brilliant accident and endless walking - Balat is a colourful ‘hood on the market side of the bridge. With rainbow steps, colourful bunting and cobblestone alleys - this old Jewish Quarter was once abandoned until UNESCO invested in reinvigorating the village. It is now one of the trendiest and intriguing areas in Istanbul, albeit still traditional and a dry area.ARNAVUTKÖY
Translating to Albanian Village in Turkish, Arnavutköy is reachable by ferry from Galataport with the route taking you directly between the two continents. Wooden houses from the Ottoman era line the shore as you pull up to the tiny port of this colourful village - which has only 3 streets and a more laid-back, nostalgic feel. Perch at Alexandra Cocktail Bar to watch the boats coming in below and if seafood is your thing, hang around for dinner at Maestros.It always feels like you might miss something in Istanbul. The more you walk, the more you discover. The more you realise how addictive this city is - where east meets west, old meets new and Asia meets Europe. Aside from New York City, I have never had a better nights sleep than in Istanbul after these long, culturally intoxicating days - it truly is a city for the senses.—————————————————————————————————————
What Else?
Walk along the waters edge from Arnavutköy to Bebek - a boujee neighbourhood where trendy Istanbulites hang out.
Head to the two biggest mosques in Istanbul - Hagia Sophia and Sultan Ahmet Mosque (aka the Blue Mosque) whilst the call to prayer sounds across the grounds - It’s a moving experience you won’t forget.
For the best views of the city - head to Mikla Restaurant in Beyoglu. A fine dining restaurant, which must be booked well in advance. If you are lucky - they take walk in’s for a drink on the 18th floor balcony.
Visit the Princes Islands in the Marmara Sea to cool off in clear, turquoise waters. It’s an hour by ferry from the city centre.
Experience a Turkish Hammam bath - a relaxing (ish) ritual involving soaking, exfoliating, massage and sauna. We chose Cat Mescit Hamami, built in the 16th century.